M4A1 x-max gen3 Body problem

Hi all,

I noticed a large gap between upper and lower receiver.
Also the upper receiver moves right to left...






I looked closely at the anchor points (or pins ?) and this is what I found.





They apparently missed the hole ... about 1 mm
It's poorly drilled
And it's really not a shadow effect

My SN : 01001005
Produced in 2010, january and it's number 5 of the series.

Anyone have the same ?

Thanks for commenting.

Mine is also a 2010 CQB
• it DOES have the gap between upper and lower
• it DOES NOT have any wobble between the upper and lower

You might try ordering some buffer tube plug shims to tighten up the detent mechanism.

My upper has another issue though, the picatinny rail leans to the right. I suspect when the uppers were painted they were laid on their side and the paint is causing the 'lean' on the rails.

Hi,

i went to my seller and he changed the lower receiver and now it looks fine.
Wobble disappear and mechanism seems to be more soft.
End of this episode

I'll try it very soon

Special Thanks to BOSS

boss wrote:Mine is also a 2010 CQB
• it DOES have the gap between upper and lower
• it DOES NOT have any wobble between the upper and lower

You might try ordering some buffer tube plug shims to tighten up the detent mechanism.

My upper has another issue though, the picatinny rail leans to the right. I suspect when the uppers were painted they were laid on their side and the paint is causing the 'lean' on the rails.

My upper and lower was the same with the gap and wobble of the upper , but i just added a Magpul PTS lower and now its super tight with no wobble or gap but its really hard to move the body pins due to heavy paint on there Magpul lowers.

hey I got news for you guys...my REAL STEEL AR15 has a gap between the upper and the lower and it shoots just fine, as do my PTW and my CTW's if really bothers you get a Ra-tech magic pin (20$) and it will solve the issue.

This is a know issue with the CTW's. I'd buy a G&P upper and lower that fits perfect for 200 bux.

Mine had the gap when my gears would not cycle properly and the teeth were up and not down... Check that out before anything else...

No wobble though...

TAKE A SET OF FEALER GUAGES YOU CAN BUY AT ANY LOCAL ADVANCE AUTO PARTS FOR 5 BUCKS , PUT GUAGE IN BETWEEN UPPER AND LOWER BODY WERE THEY MEAT WERE THE PIN GOES THREW THE 2 HALFS IN THE BACK TILL YOU GET THE RIGHT GUAGE THEN TAKE A METAL PUNCH PUNCH YOUR WHOLE FOR THE BODY PIN FIRST, THEN PUNCH A LARGER HOLE AROUND THAT TO CREATE A SHIM.. I DID THIS FOR MINE AND THE WOBBLE IS GONE AND FEELS WAY MORE SOLID HOPE THIS HELPS

the gap isn't a big deal at all. That imitates the 1:1 scale factor, my AR-15 has a gap like that to, in fact my dads does my brother does and my grandpas does. yet i can hit a penny at 100yards with it even with the gap. Don't worry about that little 3mm gap. It wont hurt.

USMC6888 wrote:hey I got news for you guys...my REAL STEEL AR15 has a gap between the upper and the lower and it shoots just fine, as do my PTW and my CTW's if really bothers you get a Ra-tech magic pin (20$) and it will solve the issue.

Will the "Ra-tech magic pin" work on the CTW? I´m asking because they said works on GBB..
Thanks.

I have one installed on my early CTW cqbr, worked for me just fine, cheap enough 20.00 bucks isn't so bad.

Ok thanks i will buy one because my CTW body wobble =/

Hello.
I have the magic pin but that was to large for the hole of the CTW, how you say that you have one on your CTW? Or the 2010 version (mine) is diferent of the other ones?
Thanks.